This was not my first time in the land far up north of Toronto but it was an experience so primitive that it has a special place in my memory.
It’s that time of the year, an annual camping trip amidst the ongoing pandemic. One of the few things we can “safely” do. The planning is always intense, from making lists, figuring out rentals, bookings, you name it. The divide and conquer really helps here but more often than not, the majority of the to-do gets done the day before.
The trip started at 4 am in the morning with the rental already packed up, more like stuffed up. We drove up an hour on highway 400 and waited for the rest to join us. Pre-sunrise coffee and some homemade sandwiches helped wake us up. Google predicted time for this trip is 8 hours and 40 minutes but really it takes around 10-11 hours depending on how the journey goes. This is the kind of drive that clears the mind, filled with greenery, rocks and a sense of peace. We made a pitstop near Parry Sound to enjoy the view of a running river. Watched the clear waters run by while performing some Whim Hof breathing techniques. Back on the road, you know the ancient land is near as the elevation increased and the mountainous views started appearing past Sault Ste. Marie. We drove past the Agawa Bay campground and the visitors centre to start hunting for our prime location. The uncertainty of backcountry camping and finding the ideal spot added an extra element of thrill. Using a few parked jeeps as our set point, we divided the group to start a mini-hike through the paths that may eventually lead us to our sites. With our items loaded, few took the manmade path, few decided to wander through the forest in hopes of a shortcut.
At last, we found a beautiful, isolated spot to set up the tent right by the water facing the tall mountains of the Agawa. The serenity that comes with such isolation is hard to explain with words but brings joy to the mind that’s used to the busy city life. So we began setting up shop, making multiple trips back and forth to the cars parked by the road. The shortcut was a rocky path so we had to really use all the energy to get our items through. Some decided to stay closer to the car to make dinner, others helped set up the camp. We were able to catch the sunset as we hurried to get the camping duties out of the way. Time is light in these instances.
The first night was one of the most memorable experiences. We had a long day but it all felt worth it. The sun came down and as some were finishing up dinner, the rest went down to set up the fire. The final set-up was something out of a movie, you can hear the sound of the water and the fire, the moonlight bright above, good old Coldplay music in the background. We cracked some beers and sat there to immerse the scenery. This is different, not my usual camping experience. It felt natural and connecting.
Day 2:
Waking up to the view was refreshing but we were all tired so the morning went easy. We had a light breakfast and sat around the camp soaking in some vitamin D and catching up on conversations. The water was freezing cold but when you slowly enter, the body adapts. We cleaned up and packed our things for a day hike. We decided to visit Sand River Falls. To the Ojibwa, this river was known as Pinguisibi or the “river of fine white sand.” The trail is how long you make of it, takes you by a series of waterfalls and rapids providing a lot of good picture moments. We made it halfway through and decided to enjoy some downtime by the top of the falls. The sound of fast running water with a steep drop, the birds in the background and the smell of the rocks made this hike a fun experience.
The night was special. We had a premium dinner with stove cooked meals like fries, chicken quesadillas, ribs, u name it. While it was difficult bringing all the items together, sometimes it’s worth it for a good meal after a long day. After dinner, we were back in our circles around the campfire, listening to music and enjoying the small talks. The sky was lit up, we’ve never seen so many stars. Makes you realize what pollution can really do to such views. Our necks almost broke staring up but it made the night a magical experience.
Day 3:
The day of the Agawa Rock Pictographs. It was a 10-minute drive from our campsite so we made our way there after relaxing at the campsite during the morning. The Agawa rock is one of the most famous pictograph sites in Canada, a notable indigenous archaeological site. The majority of the paintings here are said to date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The early settlers were spiritual in nature, they relied on their intense connection with nature to guide their lives and found meaning within the abstract. Thus, this serves as a sacred site where generations of Ojibwe citizens come to record dreams, visions and events. What’s truly remarkable is the ability of these paintings to withstand the harshest elements of their environment and remain ever so beautiful. Erosion is inevitable so we enjoy what remains. This trail descends about 100 ft through the rock chasms, broken boulders and sheer cliffs. Luckily, the water was calm that day allowing us to walk through the rocks to the end. We decided to soak in the view and settled in the spot for some time.
We then made our way to Katherine Cove. We were told we’d find the hidden gem here and after a few turns, we stepped into the sandy beach facing the shallow island. It’s called the “Bathtub Island” and it’s a natural basin that’s shallow enough for maximum relaxation. We pulled up our hiking pants and trekked over to the island through the water. Some brave souls decided to take a dip around the freshwater while others enjoyed the sunset with some yoga. It’s the perfect spot to end a long day. You feel surrounded by all that’s nature and dipping into the cold water, although scary, is one of the most rejuvenating feelings for the mind and the body. While the surrounding water is cold, the sun warms up the water that collects in the hollow for a nice spa-like experience.
All in all, lake superior never disappoints. Though it was not the perfect trip, no trip of this calibre should be perfect. It’s the little imperfections, the unknowns, the no signals that really makes you appreciate life outside the routine. Backcountry camping brings about a new element of connection with nature that one cannot find in preformed campsites with a lot of traffic. Camping, at its authentic core, is getting lost in nature and surrendering to the quiet space and backcountry camping does justice to this statement. This trip is yet another one for the books to grow and to learn and to be one with nature. Till next time.
